Colorado Climbing & Chamonix Mountain Guide
Antoine
Savelli is a self-taught climber who has made ascents around the
world and encountered many different approaches and philosophies
to climbing. Blending his own personal successes in the different
disciplines of the mountain sports with the knowledge he has gained
from prominent climbers worldwide, he has developed a unique,
creative and flexible approach to the mountain sports that enables
others to progress and surpass their expectations. His extensive
knowledge of anatomy, training regimes, and sports psychology
helps his students excel rapidly. His training program is individualized
and highly personal.
Savelli holds the onsight solo record of 5 1/2 hours on the
American Direct Route on the Dru and the onsight solo record on
the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses of 7 hours. His other
accomplishments include a one day ascent of the Nose of El Capitan
in Yosemite and a world onsight solo record of 3 1/2 hours of
the ice-climb, Slipstream. He also holds the record for the fastest
guided ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome. His student
had been climbing for only two years and had never aid climbed
before; together they made the ascent in only 10 hours. He has
also guided the west rib of McKinley.
Come join Antoine Savelli and Chamonix Alpine Adventures. Experience
firsthand his philosophy: "Le guide pourvoi les meilleurs
moyens pour atteindre le but"-- He interprets: "I am
here to provide the best means to reach the goal. But, the means
clearly becomes the goal after one sees that the ascent involves
an intricately woven blend of sophisticated techniques, experience
in the mountains, spontaneous judgment and creative adaptation
to the demands of the environment and the makeup of the student.
That intricately woven blend translates into many means towards
achieving a climbing goal. I believe that Acute Sensorial Perception--
sort of a sixth sense-- is one of the means: it is my shield when
facing adversity in the most compelling situations, alone or with
a group in the mountains."
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